Surfing

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Terminology

First steps

Wind

Waves

Surfing

Surfing is a water sport where surfer is riding on the forward or deep face of the moving wave. The wave is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Those are usually ocean waves, but surfers can ride also on lakes and rivers. They can ride an artificial waves, such as those from boat wakes, and the waves created in artificial wave pools too. 

The sport of surfing began between the 19th and 20th centuries, but wave riding is an old practice that has its origins in the ancient Polynesian and ancient Peruvian cultures.

The modern surfing was born on the Hawaiian island of Oahu, Duke Kahanamoku is considered as the father of modern surfing. He is the one who popularized the ancient Hawaiian sport.

Surfing Waves

Waves are generated when wind blows consistently over a large area of open water. The size of the wave is determined by the strength of the wind. Local wind conditions affect wave quality. Ideal conditions include a light to moderate “offshore” wind, because it blows into the front of the wave, making it a “barrel” or “tube” wave. Waves could be Left handed or Right Handed depending upon the breaking formation of the wave, and can be recognized by the surfaces over which they break, for example: Beach breaks, Reef breaks and Point breaks.

Types of waves

Boards

Surfing can be done on different kind of boards, for example: surfboards, longboards, Stand Up Paddle boards (SUP’s), bodyboards, wave skis, skimboards, kneeboards or surf mats. Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and were large, long and heavy (up to 3.7m/12ft long and weight 68kg/150lbs). Nowadays modern surfboards are made of fiberglass foam (PU), fiberglass cloth and polyester resin (PE), or epoxy resin and Expanded Polystyrene foam (EPS) which is stronger and lighter than PU/PE construction. Some designers are using carbon fibre as well or technologies that they have invented. All of them had pros and cons, choosing material is a matter of preference.

Most common types of surfboards

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